Core Charge

Is the unit rebuilt, and do I need to send in a core?

Everything we sell is brand-new aftermarket, not rebuilt or refurbished, and no core is required or accepted. Keep your old unit - someone who deals in used parts may pay you something for it. The new unit carries the 3-year fault-free warranty as long as it isn't used for commercial, tournament or rental purposes.

Is there a core charge or core credit when I buy a new drive?

No core charge. We only sell brand-new units, so there's nothing for us to do with an old core - you keep it.

Is there a core charge or core return on an SEI unit?

No core charge and no core return required. We only sell brand-new aftermarket units, so a used core is of no use to us - you keep your old one and can dispose of or recycle it however you like. This is different from an OEM dealer exchange programme.

Will you take my old lower unit as a core?

No - we only sell new aftermarket units, so we don't accept cores and there's no core credit. You keep your old unit and can do as you like with it; someone who deals in used parts may give you something for it. This is different from an OEM dealer exchange programme.

Diagnosis

I found metal on my gear-lube drain plug - is that normal?

A little fine, glitter-like metal (especially at the first break-in oil change) is normal. Larger chips or a heavy amount is worth a closer look - send us a photo of the plug and tell us your motor/drive and hours, and we'll help you tell the difference at 813-925-7127.

I found rubber debris in my cooling system - where should I look for the rest?

That's usually the remains of a burnt-up impeller. Those small rubber pieces work their way up through the system, and we almost always find them between the engine and the transom at the power steering cooler. If you've had an impeller fail, check that cooler for debris before you chase an overheat any further.

I hear a noise I think is coming from the drive - how do I confirm it?

Run the boat with the drive off. In a shop we'd pull the hose from inside the transom assembly and feed a garden hose into the hose going to the engine so it has cooling water. Run it up and listen: if the noise isn't there with the drive removed, then you know to start looking at the drive. If it's still there, the drive isn't your problem.

I hear a noise only in forward gear at low RPM - what should I look at first?

Start by checking whether the propeller is making contact with the gearcase, particularly if the prop was off during a recent repair. A noise that appears only in forward gear and disappears in neutral at any RPM points that direction before it points at the gears. If there's also metal in the lube, stop running it and send us photos of the drain plug magnet.

My impeller came apart - what else should I check?

Check the coolers and water passages for debris, and in particular the power steering cooler, which is the one that tends to get plugged when an impeller disintegrates. Pieces of vane travel downstream and lodge where the passage narrows. Clearing the pump but leaving the debris in the cooler is a common reason an overheat persists after an impeller change.

My lower unit won't hold pressure and appears to leak at the prop shaft seals - what should I check?

It's common practice in the field to use a seal retaining compound on prop shaft seals - we use red Loctite, applied as a small coat around the outside of the seal before it goes into the carrier. For finding the leak itself, pressure test the unit and use soapy water around the seals so the bubbles show you exactly where it's escaping.

My new Yamaha lower makes noise at idle in forward gear - what should I check first?

Start with the prop hardware. Recheck it and specifically confirm the thrust washer is fitted behind the propeller on the prop shaft - a missing or wrongly ordered thrust washer is a common cause of noise that appears in gear. If the hardware checks out and the noise persists, send us a video and your serial number and we'll take it from there.

My new lower unit isn't making good water pressure - where do I look?

Check for an obstruction anywhere below the water pump, from the intakes up to the impeller. Also confirm the impeller wasn't damaged on the first fire-up - running with the intakes covered or without water will destroy a new impeller in seconds. If you've had an impeller fail previously, check the coolers and passages for debris, especially the power steering cooler.

My new unit won't pump water in a test tub - what's wrong?

The most common cause is the tub not being full enough. The lower unit has to be fully submerged so the water pump assembly itself is under water - partially submerged won't pick up. Two other things to check: if you pulled the top cover off the water pump and the impeller stayed in the cover, the impeller key will have dropped out of place; and on muffs, putting the boat in gear can shift the muffs just enough to stop the pickup, so squeeze them tighter in a vice and try again. A shifting issue has nothing to do with the water pump.

My trim gauge isn't reading correctly - which sensor is at fault?

There are two. The port-side sensor runs to the trim pump and is the trim limit; the starboard sensor is the one your gauge runs off. If adjustment doesn't fix it, it's very common for the wiring to fail near the bellows - trace the wire back until it disappears into the boat. If you find a break, the correct repair is to replace both sensors as a pair.

My upper unit makes a U-joint chattering noise when turning - what causes it?

There has to be play present to make U-joint noise, and the usual cause is the original clips being slightly undersized, which lets the caps spread once the drive runs under load. We have oversized U-joint clips and send them out at no charge. The fix is to remove the zerks, press the caps back together with a C-clamp and install 8 new oversized clips. Call us with your upper unit serial number at 813-925-7127 and we'll get them out to you.

The bearing carrier on my lower unit is corroding away - what causes that?

If your anodes are in good condition and the corrosion is attacking the bearing carrier first, we'd question stray current or electrolysis nearby, particularly if the boat is kept in the water. It's worth having that measured while the boat is in its slip. Practical steps: disconnect the batteries or use a battery switch when charging in the water, pull the prop at the end of the season and touch up the paint, and keep the boat out of the water when you can. A gap opening up between the lower unit and the prop is not good - it causes cavitation and can slowly leak gear lube.

The driveshaft collar on my Yamaha lower unit has cracked - is this a known problem?

Yes, and we'll be straight with you about it: the issue traces back to the original Yamaha design, and we reproduced it when we remade the driveshaft. We've since corrected it going forward, and we developed an in-field repair collar so you don't have to replace the whole shaft - Yamaha treats the collar as part of the driveshaft and sells the complete shaft. More than a few Yamaha models are affected, not just one. We supply the repair collar free for our own units. Call us at 813-925-7127 with your serial number.

The engine runs but the boat won't move - is it the drive or the coupler?

Often the engine coupler. A worn coupler will frequently work at low power and then slip once more power is applied, grabbing again when you slow down - which makes it feel intermittent. A useful check is to turn the engine over in gear and see whether the prop turns with it. If the drive shows no clunking, no metal in the lube and is pumping water, the coupler is the more likely suspect.

The metal collar on my driveshaft under the water pump is cracked - can I get a replacement?

Yes, and we send these out at no charge even if the unit is out of warranty. That collar rides on the driveshaft under the water pump, right where the seals ride, and both our units and the OE units have been known to crack there - when we reproduced the gearcase the issue came with it. Our repair collar slides over the shaft and gets epoxied into place with any two-part epoxy rather than being pressed on like the original; leave it overnight to dry and reassemble with the new seals we send. Note the OE approach is to replace the whole shaft. Send us your serial number and shipping address at 813-925-7127.

The steel collar my Yamaha driveshaft oil seal runs on is cracked and leaking - what part do I need?

If it's an SEI unit, we've made a repair collar specifically for this and we'll send it out at no cost along with new seals - just get us the serial numbers off the units. These collars can develop a crack and leak, so it's a known item rather than something you've done wrong. If it's an original Yamaha unit rather than one of ours, that collar is integral to the OE shaft and you'd need to go to Yamaha.

There's water in my gear lube and the U-joints are worn - are they related?

Very likely yes. Water getting past the bellows strips the grease out of the U-joints and the gimbal bearing, which is how a bellows problem turns into U-joint and bearing damage. Get a photo of the metal on the magnet and the condition of the joints, and check the bellows carefully before refitting anything.

Modifications

Will fitting a hydrofoil void my warranty?

Fitting a hydrofoil, including drilling the mounting holes in the plate, will not void the warranty by itself. What isn't covered is any damage caused by the installation or arising from it afterwards - if the fin is stood on and the case cracks, that failure is yours rather than ours.

Will fitting an aftermarket low-water-pickup nose cone void my warranty?

Yes - fitting an aftermarket nose cone to our lower unit voids the warranty. If you need low water pickups, tell us which engine you're on: several of our units come with low and side water intakes as built, so you may not need to modify anything.

Paint

The paint on my lower unit is peeling - is that covered, and how do I touch it up?

We cover paint under warranty once during the 3-year period. The touch-up process is the same as for any gearcase: light sanding, clean, zinc (green) primer, sand again, clean, then the top coat. Our units go out in black and can be painted any colour without affecting the warranty. Touching up paint is normal seasonal maintenance on any outdrive, particularly in salt water.

Returns

Where do I write the return authorization number when I send a unit back?

Write it on the outside of the box - that's all we need to match it up when it arrives. Some customers also put it on the shipping label beneath an RMA number, which works just as well. Box the unit up as securely as you can and send it to our Oldsmar address.

Servicing

Can you fit the driveshaft into the lower unit for me before shipping?

No, we don't assemble the driveshaft into the Johnson/Evinrude lower units before shipping. It's a genuinely simple job though - line up the splines, tap it in with a rubber mallet and it clicks into place. If you get stuck, call us at 813-925-7127 and we'll talk you through it.

Can you repair my SEI lower unit if it's out of warranty?

No - we only work on units that are still within the warranty period, meaning purchased in the last 3 years. For an older unit, a marine shop familiar with the OE drives can work on it (ours are built to the same design and OE parts fit), or a replacement unit is often the more economical route once labour is counted. We do sell the seal kits and water pump kits if you're doing the work yourself.

Do you rebuild drives?

No. We manufacture and sell new aftermarket units, and the only repair work we do is our own warranty repairs. If you're looking to have an existing unit rebuilt, that's a job for a marine shop rather than for us - though in most cases a new unit from us works out comparable once the labour is counted.

Who can service an SEI drive?

We don't recommend particular shops, but anyone familiar with the original equipment drives can work on ours - they're built to the same design. One important caveat: if the unit is still under warranty, don't disassemble it beyond changing the water pump and gear lube, as that's what the warranty terms allow.

Trim

My new trim unit won't move the ram - what should I check?

It's usually trapped air rather than a fault. An air bubble can work its way to the pump gears during shipping, since the boxes end up on every side. Remove the unit, lay it on its side with the pump portion at the lowest point and run it - that usually clears it. The units ship filled with ATF Dexron III, so top up with that if the level is low.

What fluid goes in the trim system, and how do I bleed it?

We use ATF, which has the advantage of showing up leaks clearly, though standard power trim fluid works just as well. To bleed it, keep the manual valve shut and cycle up, down, refill, and repeat - then check the final level with the unit trimmed all the way up. Only open the manual valve if you suspect trapped air remains based on the sound. When storing the boat for any length of time, leave the unit trimmed down if you can.

Turnaround

How long does a warranty repair take?

It depends on the season. From October through May, turnaround is normally 3 to 5 business days once the unit is with us. From June through September - our busiest stretch - allow 5 to 7 business days. Either way we inspect it and then repair or replace. A good approach is to pull the unit in the fall and send it in then, when we're quickest and you're not missing the water.

Warranty Claim

Can I just get a seal kit instead of sending the unit in for a water intrusion problem?

With any water intrusion complaint we want the unit back so we can inspect everything internally for pitting and rust - water that's been in there does damage beyond the seal that let it in. Disassembly by anyone other than our own technicians voids the warranty, so replacing the seals yourself would end your cover. Call us at 813-925-7127 and we'll open a claim.

Can I open up my unit myself to diagnose a problem?

Please don't while it's under warranty. We need to be the only ones who open these units up, unless we've specifically approved otherwise, which is rare. Disassembling it yourself can jeopardise the claim. Changing the water pump and gear lube is fine - going further than that isn't. Call us first at 813-925-7127 and we'll tell you what to check.

Do I have to pressure test the unit before making a warranty claim?

No - a pressure test is a request rather than a requirement. It's genuinely helpful because it confirms the leak and where you believe it's coming from, which helps our inspection line up with your findings. If you don't have a tester available, go ahead and open the claim anyway.

Does the warranty cover my labour or a local repair?

No - the warranty covers the unit, not labour, and all repairs are done in-house at Oldsmar rather than by a local shop. We also don't do walk-in warranty exchanges: the unit comes in, we inspect it, and we repair or replace it. Allow 5 to 7 business days from receipt through the summer (June to September) and 3 to 5 the rest of the year. You pay the shipping to us and we cover the return leg.

How do I make a warranty claim?

You just need the serial number off the red tag on your SEI unit - no proof of purchase required for serialized units. File at warranty@sterndrive.cc or call 813-925-7127 and we'll look it up and walk you through next steps.

How do I start a warranty claim?

Email warranty@sterndrive.cc with the serial number off the lower unit, a description of what the customer is experiencing, and photos - including the magnetic drain plug and the drained gear lube if metal is the concern. You can also call 813-925-7127. We'll issue a claim number and instructions; the unit then comes to us for evaluation and we either repair or replace it.

How should I package a lower unit to ship it back?

Box it up as securely as you can - we've found that TV moving boxes hold up very well and are long enough to accommodate the driveshaft. Write your claim or RMA number on the outside of the box so we know what it is when it arrives. If you still have the original packaging we can often sell you a return label at a discounted rate.

I'm outside the US - how does a warranty claim work?

It depends where you are. If you're in mainland Europe, our European operation at seimarine.eu handles your warranty locally, so the unit doesn't cross the Atlantic. Everywhere else - including the UK and Canada - claims come back to our facility in Oldsmar, Florida, and you'd cover the shipping both ways; we don't authorise dealers to carry out warranty repairs. Turnaround here is 5 to 7 business days through the summer and 3 to 5 the rest of the year, and we either repair or replace. If it turns out to be something minor, the warranty manager will consider alternatives case by case.

Is a bent prop shaft covered under warranty?

Yes - a bent prop shaft would be covered under our no-fault warranty, as long as the unit isn't being used for commercial purposes. Get the serial number off the unit and call us at 813-925-7127 so we can open a claim and tell you what to send in.

Is the warranty a one-time repair, or can I claim more than once?

It isn't a one-time warranty - claims are handled case by case across the 3 years. The one exception is paint and finish, which we cover once during the warranty period. What does end a claim is the unit having been opened by someone else; we can't warranty another technician's work.

What do I need to strip off the unit before sending it back for a warranty claim?

Remove the water pump, the shift rod and the upper driveshaft, along with any prop hardware and anodes - those are yours and we don't need them. Submit the claim first and we'll send you the full instructions along with your claim number. Box it up as securely as you can and write the claim or RMA number on the outside.

What does "fault-free" actually mean in your warranty?

It means we cover the failure regardless of cause - if the unit was run without gear lube, or run into rocks, that's still covered. The exclusions are commercial use, tournament fishing, boat rentals and competitive activity, and the unit being opened by someone other than us. That's a meaningfully broader cover than a standard manufacturer's defect warranty, and it runs 3 years from the date the unit ships.

Who pays the shipping on a warranty return?

You're responsible for the shipping to get the unit to us, and we cover the return shipping back to you. Once it arrives, turnaround is 5 to 7 business days through the summer (June to September) and 3 to 5 the rest of the year, and we either repair or replace it. For international claims you'd cover both directions.

Will replacing a seal myself void my warranty?

Yes, if you open the gearcase to do it. Opening the unit for anything beyond normal maintenance - the water pump and gear lube are fine - is the quickest way to void the warranty, and it's set out in our warranty policy. We know shipping a unit back is inconvenient in season, but we require the unit to come to us for evaluation and repair. Call us first at 813-925-7127; sometimes the fix is a drain plug gasket or a water pump base, which you can do without affecting cover.

Will you send the replacement before I send my failed unit in?

No - our warranty policy is that we need to see and inspect the failed drive first. Turnaround is normally 3 to 5 business days from when it arrives, and after that we either repair it or replace it depending on the failure. Factor the shipping each way into your timeline if you're working to a launch date.

Warranty Length

Do individual parts carry the same 3-year warranty as a complete unit?

No. Complete drives and lower units carry the 3-year fault-free warranty, while individual parts - a driveshaft or a bearing carrier, for example - carry a 1-year limited manufacturer's warranty. Trim and tilt systems are also 1 year. So the cover depends on what you bought, not just who made it.

How does your warranty compare with Mercury's on a replacement gearcase?

On a replacement gearcase, Mercury offers a 1-year manufacturer warranty. We offer a 3-year no-fault warranty, which covers failures from customer damage through to manufacturing defects, provided the unit isn't used commercially, competitively or in a rental fleet. Rubber seals can fail from any manufacturer for a number of reasons - the difference is what's covered when they do.

How long is the warranty on SEI products?

SEI drives and lower units carry a 3-year fault-free warranty from the date of original purchase, and it's transferable - it stays with the unit. (Trim/tilt systems carry a separate 1-year warranty.) It covers manufacturing issues but excludes commercial use, tournament fishing, and racing.

If you replace my unit under warranty, does the 3 years start again?

No - we go back to the original purchase date, and the warranty is 3 years from that date. So if a unit bought in 2018 was warrantied and replaced in 2020, the clock still runs from 2018 and the replacement isn't covered for a fresh 3 years. The warranty does transfer with the unit if the boat is sold.

What exactly does the 3-year warranty exclude?

It's a 3-year fault-free warranty provided the unit isn't used for commercial use, tournament fishing, competitive activity or boat rentals. Charter fishing and rental fleets fall outside it. Within those terms it covers manufacturing issues, and it's attached to the drive before it leaves us, so there's no card to send in.

What warranty comes with a Mercury outboard lower unit?

Three years, fault-free, from the date of original purchase - provided it isn't used for commercial, rental or competitive activity. That's the same warranty across our lower unit range. The units are made at our factory in Taiwan.

What warranty comes with trim and tilt systems?

Trim and tilt systems carry a 1-year limited warranty, which is separate from the 3-year fault-free warranty on drives and lower units. Trim cylinders are also 1 year. The serial number on a trim unit is on a silver label, starting with the letter "A" followed by a 3 or 4 digit number - you'll need that to open a claim.

When does my 3-year warranty actually start?

It starts the day the unit ships from our dock, and it runs 3 years from that date. There's nothing to register - the warranty is attached to the serial number before it leaves us, and any card in the box is just for your records. Note that it runs from that original date even if you bought through a dealer, and it doesn't reset if we replace the unit under a claim.

Warranty Registration

Do I need to register my serial number or send in a warranty card?

No - the warranty is attached to the drive before it leaves us, so there's nothing to register. Any card in the box is just for your own records. If you ever need to open a claim, the serial number off the unit is what we'll ask for.

Warranty Transfer

Is the warranty transferable if I sell the boat?

Yes, and there's nothing to fill in on our end. Just make sure the new owner has the serial numbers off the unit - we track warranty by those numbers, so whoever holds them can open a claim for the remainder of the 3 years.